Every cosmetic product receives a rating for every single ingredient, and a final rating for the whole product.
Every ingredient receives a rating with points based on these guidelines:
10 points = + + + = perfect = Any ingredient that is also a part of the human skin or body, and for this reason is 100% skin-compatible. These ingredients form an essential part of the skin and are recognized by our body as a part of it. Therefore the immune system will not develop inflammation cells. This means that allergies are not possible which these ingredients (only exception to this rule are the very rare autoimmune diseases). For example: ceramid-3 is a lipid that is present in the human skin as an essential part of the protective barrier and of the living skin cells. Less than 10 points will only be given to a skin identical ingredient, if there are known negative consequences to the skin.
8 points = + + = very good = Any ingredient that contains large concentrations of substances that are also a part of the human skin or body, and for this reason are very skin-compatible. For example: natural oils from plants with a high concentration of skin identical or skin similar lipids, like evening primrose oil. Allergy development to the not-skin-identical substances in these ingredients is very rare, but not completely excluded.
6 points = + = good = Any ingredient that has a possible good influence on the human skin, but that is less skin-compatible. For example: essential oils of plants are not a part of the human skin, but they can have a short term desired effect like calming, anti-inflammation etc. Allergy development is rare, but not excluded.
4 points = no + or ? = neutral = Any ingredient that is added to the product for the product's sake, but is of no use for the skin. Or any ingredient that has no proven benefit to the skin, but neither has any known negative effect on the skin. For example: most of the emulgators bind the water and the oil component of the product, but do not add any value to the skin's protection or nourishment. Most of the time, allergy development is rare, but not excluded.
2 points = ? = negative = Any ingredient that can have a negative effect on the skin, or gives a bad skin feeling. For example: aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex is a mineral active agent with sweat impeding effect, but can also cause irritations and skin-inflammatory skin reactions.
0 points = ??? = very negative = Any ingredient that can have a strong negative effect on the health of the skin and the body. For example: fragrances and preservatives like parabenes are among the most common allergy triggers in cosmetic products and should be avoided as much as possible. Mineral oils like vaseline can have a drying out effect on the skin, are a cheap filling to avoid expensive ingredients, but do not nourish the skin. They can give a very greasy, unpleasant feeling to the skin, they disturb the lamellar bodies in the skin, and prevent other active substances in the product to do their work.
The final rating for the whole product is made on the basis of the maximum of 100 points using this formula:
sum of all points x 10
--------------------- = points/100
number of ingredients
Important note 1: Products with a good final score in points, but with 1 or more very negative ingredients, can still harm the skin's health, therefore it is important to avoid such products regardless of their general score.
Important note 2: The ingredients (INCI) are always listed on the packaging with the highest concentrated ingredient on the top, and the smallest concentrated ingredient last. As it is impossible to know the exact concentration of the ingredients, one should always consider that - as a general rule - positive active ingredients should be as highly concentrated as possible to have a real effect. The allergens that are in a product will have their negative effect, regardless of their concentration. This means they should always be avoided, even when they are added in a small concentration